Viking WAS'ed mephy :D

[LoonWulf]

I just finished installing a Viking WAS board in my mephy. Ive still yet, to get some paint thru it. Im hopping to do that today at the field. Anyway, its more work then a minimorlock, which ive done before, but the computer connection is nice to have lol. Its all done besides adding eyes, and extending the on/off wires so they will reach the back of the frame and the stock position for the switch.

best part? total install cost with new parts well less then 50 bucks.

worst part? i had to in large the hole in the frame for the board, and it dosnt sit exactly right. If i actualy had a mill i probobly coulda got it in there realy nicely.

Now i just need to finish making the clear acrylic covers to show it off, and to fix the fact that the battery and board bulge out of the frame just slightly.

http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/4122/p4220053jk8.th.jpg (http://img168.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p4220053jk8.jpg)
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/380/p4220045eu5.th.jpg (http://img406.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p4220045eu5.jpg)
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/1660/p4220051jt3.th.jpg (http://img180.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p4220051jt3.jpg)

[bad_ass_trix]

You beat me to it!

I have laying here..some old was boards for a viking.
And two tadao viking boards..

The was boards i have are v1.5 no modes..which sucks..I shaved the inside of my grip frame with a drumel- sand papper bit...so the board had a bit more room to sit right.

This is what i did...(even tho its not running off the board yet)

I took my grips off..and also took my drumel to the inside layer on both sides..so the battery and board didnt push the grips out and look weird..

I shaved the inside of my grip frame with a drumel- sand papper bit...

[LoonWulf]

yeah thats what i was gonna do if the rotozip bit in the drill press hadnt worked... If you want i can update your WAS boards for you. I just installed 1.6 on mine.

I got lucky with the grips, those are old ones i got off of ebay a couple of years ago. They were sitting in my gear bag and had started to curl, so they naturaly bulge. The board and battery have just enough room with those grips so that it all looks good. Feels nice to my big hands also :D

[outreach]

about that mini morlock how does it work? lol i still have it in my timmie but cant figure out how to work it.

[LoonWulf]

You should be able to get some instructions from ...freek i cant rember the name of the manufacturer right now lol.

Its pretty easy to use from what i remember, i actualy traded the Twister id done the conversion in just after i finished it.

[warpedmephisto]

Here's a link to the original Morlock manual - http://exarin.com/products/morlockman.html

I think the Mini-Morlock had the same programming style.

LoonWulf - Did you still use the connectors on the board, or did you remove them and solder in the wires? I bet its a tight fit in there!

[LoonWulf]

Yeah, you know i didnt even think to remove the connectors LOL. That would have solved the space issue with out me having to make new grips, or use these old ones i had .
Its tight as it stands, theres no way to get it all flush with the connectors on the board. If they were removed however, i think it would flush up just fine.


...edit... Yeah the mini has the same programing as the full size, its actually the same manual you get also.

[LoonWulf]

http://img531.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p5110005kt7.flv

best video i could come up with. Its quality is better at a larger size, but i cant figure out how to change it.

Gun Settings are
Dwell 10
Bip 5
Db2
Eye: simulate (i dont have the eyes yet)
Mode: 3 full auto (which used to be nxl full auto. In 2.0 i dont know what that would be).

I purchased the wrong wiring connector for the solenoid so the board thinks it in a Excal instead of a viking. I just ordered the correct connector, so that might make life a little easier.