9300 B2k board in a tribal

[flyweightnate]

Any idea how to wire this in? So far all I know is:

Black battery to board, red to switch, red switch to board. Then one pair goes to the solenoid. Maybe another to a LED.

[Spitlebug]

Wiring harness for Bushmaster boards WITH EYES:

http://www.hunt101.com/img/526199-big.jpg


Wiring harness for Bushmaster boards WITHOUT EYES:

http://www.hunt101.com/img/526200-big.jpg

[flyweightnate]

Alright, supposing I want to go with my stock Tribal board after getting it resoldered...

I found Edwins drawings of the V1E and V1F boards. For a Tribal BBT 2.2, which is it?

I've been tracing along on the V1e board, which seems most like mine. I'm no electrical engineer, but I can figure a lot out. Here's what i don't know.
-The whole backplate board is a switch, a charger jack (which I don't need), and LEDs to tell me how much charge I have left. Can I scrap this whole board, and just grab a three-color LED that would do the same job as these three LEDs? Also, my green and yellow don't seem to be working. The red lights up only when I plug in a nearly dead battery, or it blinks when I run a full-auto burst.
-The solenoid wires don't look to be polarized/ color coded. Does polarity matter? I'd think it does... if it does, which goes ground and which goes to the live?
-Is there a reason for all the ground wires? I count 3; shouldn't the three boards only need two total? Can I scrap the ground from the backplate to the main board, if I up the gauge on the ground from the main board?
-Are the wires silver or aluminum?
-The connections from the dips to the local chip are all linked to a 5v power source and a single resistor on one side, ground on the other. It looks a little funky to me, as though the dips wouldn't do anything. Could someone explain how this works? Or does the drawing have a 'typo' of sorts here?

Thanks.

[warpedmephisto]

There should have been a little tag on the micro that said either V1E or V1F - they're real similar though.

you might be able to get by with a 3-color LED instead of the backplate board, but there's some resistors and diodes on there you have to worry about. I've cut a few of the boards off and just wired a power switch in series with the +9v wire running from the battery board up to the controller board. Thats usually pretty easy to do (and trace).

The solenoids aren't polarized - no worries.

Which ground wires are you talking about? You can eliminate a bunch by snipping off the back board, like mentioned above.

Wires are tinned (solder clad) copper.

Don't know what diagram you're looking at, but I thought all of the DIP switch logic went into the small micro on the back of the battery board, and that sent logic through the other ribbon wires up to the controller board.

[flyweightnate]

Thanks for the info. The reason I'm confused about the dips on the board is this:

The drawing shows a connection to ground on one side, to 5v on the other side... for each switch, between the dip and the chip. Pretty much, the drawing shows every element in the switches being wired parallel, as with all the inputs on the chip, so the dips would be indistinguishable from each other. Flipping 2 and 3 would look the same as flipping 4 and 8, or 5 and 7...

I'm assuming there's just not supposed to be the dots where the 5v line crosses the dip switch lines... but wanted to check.

[Edwin]

I will have to double check my schematic on the battery board just to make sure, as the resistors connected to U1 and SW1 look a little Odd.

Here is what basically happens on the battery DIP switch....U1 P0 through P7 are "pulled high" (pulled to 5V) when the dip switches are open (Off). When you switch a switch to On it sets that Port to ground (Low or 0V). So each switch individually sets the ports on U1 to either High or Low. U1 then takes that Parallel Data and converts it to serial (shift register), and the micro controller (U2) only needs 3 wires and a common ground to get 8 lines of information.

Everything on the batt board schematic should be correct, except the 5V that connects in between the 8 resistors and P0-P7. Um I really need to look at a board again....

Warped, U1 isn't a Microcontroller. It is a 8 bit static shift register.

http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MC14014B-D.PDF

[Edwin]

You probably have a V1E as only a few Tribals shipped with V1F

[flyweightnate]

Cool, thanks. BTW, that diagram's been a big help to me, so thanks for that too.

[8-ball]

You may want to ask Kaos about that wiring and see if anything has been changed since he had to redo it for me after the "macro?" switch went out on me.