Has anyone done this yet? (Pics included)

[Skwid]

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb91/RogerRamirezJr/CIMG1289.jpg

Unmilled Mephy (#2835), with a modded Spyder Rocking Frame.
This is my first real mod to any of my guns.

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb91/RogerRamirezJr/CIMG1290.jpg

As you can see, it is not the cleanest of mods, but I am quite proud of it. (all I had to work with was a dremel) I had to remove the stock pancake solenoid out of the grip frame, and gut the inside back part of the frame. In doing so, I did not have to alter the body of the gun, only the grip frame.

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb91/RogerRamirezJr/CIMG1291.jpg

With the solenoid being as long as it is, I had to cut a hole in the back of the frame so that it sticks out. I also had to move the on/off switch to make room for the solenoid, and the easiest place I found to put it was on the grip panel.
I haven't put any paint through it, but I dry-fired the hell out of it, and it seems to work perfectly...

As to what it is called...feel free to make suggestions.

[MephistoMike]

Hahaha, that's really clever. I friggin hate those rocking triggers but I'll definitely give you props.

What board are you using in there?

[Skwid]

I am using the stock board. Haven't gotten around to thinking about upgrading. I don't know much about Spyders, so I don't even know if there is a board upgrade...is there?

[MephistoMike]

So, you're actually using the spyder board in there? And yes I do believe that they have upgrade boards for them. Virtue has one for like 75 bucks that comes with laser eyes, but I'm not exactly sure which version of spyders it is for

[Skwid]

Yeah, I am using the stock spyder board. And it works just fine. I put some paint through it last night, and I don't think I could ask for a gun to work any better. It shot like a dream. I am not sure if I am going to upgrade the board or not. The only reason I can think of for upgrading is to increase bps, and I really don't see the need to go faster that 13 bps. I could get a board that has eyes on it, but I don't want to put eyes on my mephy. I want to keep it as stock as possible. I don't know...still thinking about it.

[MephistoMike]

I'm sure that stock rocking trigger frame can go faster than 13 bps, you'll just have to find a manual online to see how. It probably has an eyes off cap or something.

[usagi_tetsu]

That's pretty neat. Are you going to cover the solenoid with anything? I tend to, when I'm not firing and especially when I'm trying to hustle up to the next bunker/piece of cover, let the upper back strap of the grip frame rest on my hand and think those two screw heads in the 'noid would tear my hand up something fierce. How does it feel to you?

[bakerboy4679]

That looks pretty cool!
A new board with ACE would be on my shopping list. More ROF and eyes = baller. (no pun intended.... ok. . it was..)

Oh and I don't know exactly what 'weight' are in there now, but you might wanna look into some lighter microgram switches and installing trigger magnets, too.

[Skwid]

That's pretty neat. Are you going to cover the solenoid with anything? I tend to, when I'm not firing and especially when I'm trying to hustle up to the next bunker/piece of cover, let the upper back strap of the grip frame rest on my hand and think those two screw heads in the 'noid would tear my hand up something fierce. How does it feel to you?

I would like to fabricate a piece that would not only cover the solenoid, but also allow the back screw to be completely enclosed. The frame feels like it is on there pretty good, but I would like some more support. The solenoid does touch the webbing of my hand, and so do the screws of the solenoid. So I need to figure something out before I take it to the field.

[Skwid]

That looks pretty cool!
A new board with ACE would be on my shopping list. More ROF and eyes = baller. (no pun intended.... ok. . it was..)

Oh and I don't know exactly what 'weight' are in there now, but you might wanna look into some lighter microgram switches and installing trigger magnets, too.

I am not sure what the weight are on the switches, either. The ones that are in there seem pretty damn light to me. Who knows...if I come across some spare cash, I may replace them with lighter ones, and replace the board. As far as the eyes go, I probably won't be putting eyes on it. I want to keep the body as original as possible. The only thing I have done to it beside the grip frame is install Edwin's ram spring and TILPR. Oh, and being that the marker didn't come with the original HPR, I had to install an after-market HPR.
Actually, what I need to do is save up my money, so when/if someone puts a Fluster up for sale, I can afford it. I need a Fluster to complete my collection.

[Skwid]

So, I have been brainstorming on how to make a cover for the part of the solenoid sticking out of the back of the grip. I figure that the best thing I can do for now is to make a mold, which I did by covering the area with saran wrap. I then poured some home-made plaster (made of flour and water) over it. When It dries, I should be able to lift the plaster off of the grip. I will then have a mold. Now, I just have to figure out what kind of material I am going to pour into the mold. Ultimately, what I would like to do is make a complete part out of modeling clay (or something), and have someone mill a part out of aluminum. Feel free to make any suggestions...

[bakerboy4679]

Well shoot man, Andy sells .25g switches for like $5.
Wayy back when those things came out, I remember reading that they had like .90g's on there or something pretty "heavy" like that.

I really think you would see a difference with the 25g's and some medium magnets on the trigger return!

Everything you need is right here-
http://www.warpedairsmithing.com/tribalproducts.asp

[Skwid]

Wow...I didn't realize that switches were so cheap. I think I will have to pick up a couple of those...