Spitlebug
11-24-2008, 11:10 AM
Alright, so let's have a discussion on the internals of Tribal markers. Starting from front to back.
First the stock Tribal uses an AOC which is essentially a non adjustable LPR. Let's just assume the AOC sucks and that no one uses it unless they are desperate. I assume you guys use a bevvy of other aftermarket LPR like the TILPR/AOC LPC and LPRC's. Maybe even 'Cocker LPRs and MicroRocks.
Valve spring. Is this a long or short spring? Straight compression or conical style? Anyone know the spring force on the stock spring? I am assuming you guys also use 'Cocker spring kits for this in an aftermarket setup.
Valve stem and valve body. This is where my knowledge gets a little fuzzy. It seems to me that the Tribal has some kind of soft insert behind the stock valve? Is this correct? Also what style of valve does the Tribal use because it looks to me like they use a 'Cocker style valve where there is a "protrusion" out the very back of the valve. How many people actually use this valve or are aftermarket valves with a flush backing more commonplace?
Hammer. The stock hammer is funny looking. There is a "recess" in the front of the hammer and I assume that is due to the stock valve design? Would it be fair to assume that the depth of the "recess" is where a flush faced hammer should terminate with the valve pin? Pull pin groove in the hammer is quite deep.
Ram shaft. Given that the groove on the hammer is quite deep one can only assume that the threading on the ram shaft is small-ish. Probably something like 8-32 or 6-32. I will have to take a ram apart to figure out just what is going on there. Very minor concern. Do you guys use the FSDO spring on all your rams?
Ram housing. Here is the meat and potatoes of the ram itself. By the looks of things, the outlet (A and B) ports of the solenoid/manifold exit on either side of the middle O-ring. The return stroke seems to use the most amount of air given that there is quite a distance between the outlet port of the solenoid and the porting in the front half of the ram housing. This can be mitigated in a few ways so I am not overly concerned with that. The forward stroke is pretty simple.
-In your guy's opinion how is the stock ram for porting? Do you typically port your rams for better flow?
-I am also assuming because of the design of the ram, the front of the housing butts up against a portion of the marker body to stop the forward travel. This might be a bit of a bear to deal with as typically I will want to elongate the ram so as to make the best of useable space (no rear of hammer essentially).
-Now the ram is retained within the body by a plug that also acts as the back cap of the ram. I assume I cannot go out much farther than that due to the electronics and back plate. What kind of tools do you guys prefer to get your rams out? I assume you use a slotted screw driver to get it out? Would this be beneficial to maintain or would a coin slot/slotted screw driver removal be better (is there enough room)? Would hex removal be better? Possibly an air-up locking system? Bunch of options to choose from.
Back Plate and Electronics. Don't really know much about them. I am assuming you all still use a back plate though regardless of any electronics modification.
Moving on to the upper tube.
Bolt. Stock bolt or aftermarket? Which is more common? Did I hear some people were using Bushmaster bolts?
First the stock Tribal uses an AOC which is essentially a non adjustable LPR. Let's just assume the AOC sucks and that no one uses it unless they are desperate. I assume you guys use a bevvy of other aftermarket LPR like the TILPR/AOC LPC and LPRC's. Maybe even 'Cocker LPRs and MicroRocks.
Valve spring. Is this a long or short spring? Straight compression or conical style? Anyone know the spring force on the stock spring? I am assuming you guys also use 'Cocker spring kits for this in an aftermarket setup.
Valve stem and valve body. This is where my knowledge gets a little fuzzy. It seems to me that the Tribal has some kind of soft insert behind the stock valve? Is this correct? Also what style of valve does the Tribal use because it looks to me like they use a 'Cocker style valve where there is a "protrusion" out the very back of the valve. How many people actually use this valve or are aftermarket valves with a flush backing more commonplace?
Hammer. The stock hammer is funny looking. There is a "recess" in the front of the hammer and I assume that is due to the stock valve design? Would it be fair to assume that the depth of the "recess" is where a flush faced hammer should terminate with the valve pin? Pull pin groove in the hammer is quite deep.
Ram shaft. Given that the groove on the hammer is quite deep one can only assume that the threading on the ram shaft is small-ish. Probably something like 8-32 or 6-32. I will have to take a ram apart to figure out just what is going on there. Very minor concern. Do you guys use the FSDO spring on all your rams?
Ram housing. Here is the meat and potatoes of the ram itself. By the looks of things, the outlet (A and B) ports of the solenoid/manifold exit on either side of the middle O-ring. The return stroke seems to use the most amount of air given that there is quite a distance between the outlet port of the solenoid and the porting in the front half of the ram housing. This can be mitigated in a few ways so I am not overly concerned with that. The forward stroke is pretty simple.
-In your guy's opinion how is the stock ram for porting? Do you typically port your rams for better flow?
-I am also assuming because of the design of the ram, the front of the housing butts up against a portion of the marker body to stop the forward travel. This might be a bit of a bear to deal with as typically I will want to elongate the ram so as to make the best of useable space (no rear of hammer essentially).
-Now the ram is retained within the body by a plug that also acts as the back cap of the ram. I assume I cannot go out much farther than that due to the electronics and back plate. What kind of tools do you guys prefer to get your rams out? I assume you use a slotted screw driver to get it out? Would this be beneficial to maintain or would a coin slot/slotted screw driver removal be better (is there enough room)? Would hex removal be better? Possibly an air-up locking system? Bunch of options to choose from.
Back Plate and Electronics. Don't really know much about them. I am assuming you all still use a back plate though regardless of any electronics modification.
Moving on to the upper tube.
Bolt. Stock bolt or aftermarket? Which is more common? Did I hear some people were using Bushmaster bolts?