red-loctite.......

[shiftycastro]

if somebody could answer me this ....... why do people in general even use red loctite for stuff you will take apart on a regular basis? blue loctite .... i would think would be easier if anything.

a example ... the asa screw , valve screw , ram .......

i take my guns apart everytime i play or im just bored and clean them.

i havent seen a ram blow out the back of a gun.....a asa screw pop out or a valve come loose because of not using loctite........ or even having a leak for that matter ....it always comes down to orings most of the time.

jb weld ........ thats just stupid as hell ..........

red loctite on feednecks, hammer on the ram .....and of course those pesky ass grub screws if you have to replace them.
blue on everything else if you use anything at all .......... at least thats me

[jeremy.sears]

I use blue on pretty much everything, if it gives me trouble down the road then Ill go to the red. Red is a bit overkill had some stuff on a older tribal I got in that was green locktited. That one I had to bake to get apart

[Edwin]

Blue on everything except the Hammer, which get red.

There is a funny thing about Loctite. Technically it doesn't work good on these surfaces, Anodized Aluminum and Stainless Steel. It needs active metal to really work and Anodized Aluminum and SS are not good metals for Locktite.

I found at work trying to locktite a bearing to a anodized aluminum part that the locktite never cured. I even tried loctite that was suppose to fill a 15 thousandth gap, and it didn't cure. Then I read on loctites website and I found the list of materials of active and inactive metals, and I forun my solution. Needless to say, a little dremel to show some bare aluminum and those SS bearing locked in place fine with plain red loctite.

I noticed this problem with Tribals on both the hammer and the grub screws, as I use SS grubs when replacing stock grubs.

I have even tried epoxy on the hammer with sucess!!!

[can'tthink of1]

Me and Andy were talking about this. He said you could get by without red loctite. After hearing that, I think blue is teh way to go if you are constantly cleaning and maintencing your markers. It also makes it easier if you ever do have to fix something down the line.

[warpedmephisto]

Like Edwin said, the one thing that I noticed was that my blue Loctite didn't want to cure on the SS grub screws in a newly ano'd body. I guess I will have to run a tap in the threaded hole to expose some bare aluminum next time.

[ME262]

there is a red loctite specialy for ss, i cant recall the # off hand but i have some at the shop, i always use it on the shaft/hammer, as they will come apart eventually with blue.

i use green wicking type, on the hammer/shaft. blue on just about everything else red stainless for grubscrews or loctite hydrolic sealer on grubscrews, since you rarely remove them.

[bakerboy4679]

i such a nuckin fut... i put red 275 on my AOC cap.. now i cant get it off...
I've tried heating it(w/ a heat gun) and it still doesnt want to budge.?..
I've also tried tapping it w/ a rubber hammer.. doesnt work...

I'm trying to install a LPC, but i cant get that damn cap off to do it...

[bullschmidt2k3]

the airsmith at our old field used to eat loctite.... he said it tasted fruity. :dodgy: apparently he didn't do it on purpose at first, like he had some on his finger and licked his finger or something.... but honestly, loctite seems like a very bad thing to eat.

[bakerboy4679]

thats actually really funny... I may try some... :lightbul:

[bullschmidt2k3]

I wouldn't recommend it... That guy's nickname was "acid kid" for a reason...

[bakerboy4679]

o hha.. nvm then lol... good thing im a 'good lil boy.. who doesnt do drugs..' :Party01:

[jeremy.sears]

i such a nuckin fut... i put red 275 on my AOC cap.. now i cant get it off...
I've tried heating it(w/ a heat gun) and it still doesnt want to budge.?..
I've also tried tapping it w/ a rubber hammer.. doesnt work...

I'm trying to install a LPC, but i cant get that damn cap off to do it...

use a two prong with a pair of vice grips to give you leverage on it.
as a last resort, and I mean last resort preheat oven to about 300 and drop it in there for a pit, that should melt the locktite (unfortunately it will melt any orings and non metal inside as well, thus the absolute last resort).
on a side note why did you use locktite on the aoc cap?

[bakerboy4679]

on a side note why did you use locktite on the aoc cap?

i such a nuckin fut


Idk,, i thought it would stop the leak.. and it did.... haha...

lets see.. i have a heat gun, but i was afraid to melt/crap up my ano, so i didnt heat it that much.. i'll try to heat it more.. get some 'snapring' pliers...

The only reason i dotn use a 2prong tool is bc i'm too lazy to get one..
I'll give it a try tomorrow.. I'm off work..

[Theguy]

yeah, I am never going to use loc-tite on anything in my Tribal ever again. If I can ever get it apart again. Right now I can't get the valve screw out. And my ram is stuck in the body.

I already bent a pair of needlenose pliers and a couple allen wrenches.

[warpedmephisto]

A propane torch comes in handy for red loctite. Just don't apply too much heat as it will crack your ano.

[Edwin]

A propane torch comes in handy for red loctite. Just don't apply too much heat as it will crack your ano.

Yeah I agree with Andy, the oven and a heat gun doen't always cut it....so I got a nice propane torch too. It works great on the silver rams and snap rams, but be very careful on anything Anoed, as it will discolor or crack if over heated.

[goose]

something you may want to try rather then a blow torch....

i have numerous JET FLAME butane lighters that come in handy for about everything.

ranging from ink pin size to the bigguns which only put out about 5000

the smaller inkpin size ones are great for small area pinpoint precision.

i would imagine if you take one of these and just go around the edges a few times it would work just fine for you.

they are nowhere near as hot as a blowtorch but just hot enough.
they also do not have the area of coverage that a blowtorch has so you can use then in fine areas
:Yuppie:

[Theguy]

haha no,

I burned off an eyebrow last time i used a butane torch

[goose]

it is not a butane tourch there is a big difference.

it is a LIGHTER it just happens to have a jet flame on it which gives you pin point accuracy

hell i have even used them in a pinch to do small soldering work in the field where there was no electricity and no soldering gun just me and my field box that i carry in the back of my car.

[Edwin]

Yeah, they do work. It seems my preference of heat source changes from time to time. It all depends on what I am doing....

If I am removing all the grub screws, then the oven it goes...

If I am removing just one, heat gun, or torch....

[goose]

i agree it all depends on the job at hand and like i said before i have various sizes and temperature lighters...hell i even have some that throw off a flame so hot that after a few min.s it starts turning to green flame.....now this is not the cheesy ones they sell with the little chip of god knows what chemical on a piece of wire so it glows a cool color. it just gets that hot...

can not use them for long durations of time though so this is a major downfall and at that point yes a tourch or oven would be great.

in fact i had a buddy that was kinda crazy when it came to cleaning his markers....he would totally gut it 100 percent and wash it & degreese it and just do all this crazy crap then pop it in an oven on a cookie sheet and sit there and flip it like a piece of steak on a grill ever few min.

tooooooo much work just to clean you marker...especially after you just got it all tuned for a game.... just going to have to retune it all again before the next game...never made sense to me

[Edwin]

Copper glows green!!! I bet the copper in the wheel that scratches the flint starts to burn. my .02 :)

Just used a MAPP torch to take out Bakerboys front grub so he can add a barbed fitting. Worked like a champ, no discoloration. I was just careful to only heat it up enough to get the loctite to break loose, more more, no less!!!

Your buddy is definately anal, but I would think after 10-20 relubes and whatnot, those little air passages will definately get full of gook. :)

I am liking my torch!!!

[warpedmephisto]

I use MAPP gas as well. Just gotta make sure it doesn't get too hot though!

[Edwin]

Yep, your right about that!!! You should see one of my stock feed tubes...its ano is all blistered up. :( Them feednecks are hard mothers to get off.

Andy, you have any advice on Tribal feednecks?

[warpedmephisto]

I've always had bad luck with Tribal feednecks as well. They used green loctite on them at the factory so they're harder than a mother to get off. I usually try heating it for short period of time with the torch, mostly around the base of the feedneck and the top portion of the body, and then quickly sandwich the feed neck inbetween 2 pieces of wood in a vice. Then turn the body off of the tube. Of course I have snapped off feednecks - with the threads still in the body mind you - in the past doing that process. Its really a crap shoot either way. Heat it up to break the loctite and ruin the ano, or risk snapping the neck off of the body.

[Edwin]

What did you do with the bodies of the ones that the feednecks snapped off in????

[goose]

doesn't mapp gas burn much hotter then a typical blow torch? i bet that one take way to much self controle...i would end up roasting something.

might have a sugestion for getting ahold of those feed necks though.

i am sure there is not a paintball player out there that does not have a rubber strap wrench but we all know those sometimes just dont cut it and lets face it there is still part of it that is plastic that always just lets it slip that little bit. That little but that just drives you nuts that is.

what i found to help is a piece i stole from my mom lol

she is into airbrushing and various other crafts. with this in mind they used to make a thin rubber grippie for getting paint lids off

it is nothing more than a thin sythetic rebber with hundreds of tinny little nubs on it...and i do mean tiny nubs and there are tons of them.

with it being so thin it is easy to wrap around about anything and generally this is all i use.

if it is really stubborn i put the strap wrench over it and dang does that thing grab 20 times better than that strap wrench ever did without it.

Especially on those really good anno jobs that are slick as glass.

[warpedmephisto]

Yeah, a jar opener will work well too. The one body that I snapped the feedneck off in, I just used a small flat head screwdriver to pry the remaining section out. Since the neck is very thin there, it was no problem. Needless to say the neck and the threads were done for after this. Yes, MAPP gas does burn hotter than Propane. I should probably stick to Propane, but you know...

[goose]

yeah know what ya mean...time is money and if your in a hurry you want something that will get it done now so to speak....unfortunately i do not have that much self controle


did you get my last message abot the dual asa to a single asa conversion by the way

[warpedmephisto]

Yep, got it and relpied. I think I can whip up something that should work out nicely on your project.

[goose]

i replied back tot he one you sent me with a few of my ideas.

female palmer stabe with splitter and 2 adapters like what is on the bottom of the stock hpa
or custom made block with one asa inlet with a male palmer stabe

thinking i will need to get a sticker made up that says P.O.G. slayer for it...

i think the chaos boards may be overkill the more i think bout it though....i was doin the math and if a person could find a way to keep feeding it fast enough you could essentially go through a whole case in about 33 to 34 seconds...that is a lot of paint....granted you wont be able to feed it that fast and the hoppers wont hold that much...and you can not really run full auto to often so i dunno.

thinking edwins warloard conversion would be good enough.. 13per second is not bad and the break beam eye is really my main concern.

[warpedmephisto]

I'm going to reply to you in a PM. I don't want to hijack someone's thread here.

[Have Blue]

In the past I've used a heat gun on the loctite, then quickly clamp the neck in a big bench vise (with a rubber belt for raction and protection), and then twist the body off.

Never snapped off a feed neck (yet!), but I did manage to remove the snapped off portion in one of the surplus bodies with a trick taught to me by my good friend Lee Kinney ('Punisher' of Punisher's Customs). Clamp the body down on your vertical mill (yes, you need a mill), and use a 1/8" endmill to cut into the ring of metal left from the snapped neck:

http://haveblue.org/snappedthreadcut.JPG

(green is the ring of snapped off threads, red is the endmill)

You need to cut all the way through the ring. Yes, this will start cutting into the threads on the body, but it'll be in a very tiny spot - you won't be able to see the cut after a new neck is installed anyway. Then, dump the body in a pot of boiling water for about 5 minutes to loosen the loctite. Pull out the body and use a dental pick or other pointy tool of your choice to flick out the broken off threads. When I did this, I could have probably used my fingernail to remove the threads, they came out that easily.

[warpedmephisto]

I've done a shorter, less extensive method. On the two that I've had to remove a snapped off feed neck from I've just used a tiny jewler's screwdriver to bend and peel the threads out. Luckily the loctite doesn't hold much that way. But Have Blue's method is probably more reliable and less likely to damage the threads.

[goose]

i have tried haveblues methode but did not go through the whole boiling it thing and i do not have a mill

i used a thin cut off wheel in a dremel to get it started and then used a fine pair or needlenose pliars to basically open it like a can of sardines or spam or whatever nasty meat products you can think of that have the key on them :barfy:

none the less you just keep wrapping it and peel it right around

oh and mucho points for presentation blue :cooolll4: