awsome service for morlock

[goose]

i emailed them at the parent company that makes the morlock board to find out if i could get a wireing harness just to make it easier for the install.(whoever may be doing the install will appreciate it i am sure)

i was also asking if there was another way of doing the intelifeed since i did not want to run it straight to the motor and have it all drawing off of the 9 volt in the markers grip frame.

i had a response within an hour and this is what i found out

talk about quick service...and free too. then he gave me several ideas for the intelifeed...the board can take up to 35 volts so i can actually use the 18 volt supply from the egg to run it and put the board right in the grip with no batteries in it or anything...just use the 18 volt supply from the hopper....hummm will the noid take it or does the board controle how much voltage is going to the noid???? (stupid newb question i know)

i think running it off of the egg power suply is a great idea as long as i keep the egg on it

Geez dude lighten up, no need to be so formal :)

Wiring harnesses are no problem, I can just send you one, all I need is
your address. Don't sweat soldering to the board if yo uneed to, its
pretty tough, I chose components with high tolerances for heat.

Its not so much that I advise running the intellifeed directly from the
board as there is little other choice without specifc knowledge of your
setup. If you want to have the board signal a hopper to turn on then you
can tap directly off the 5v signal that runs the transistor, or run the
9v signal from the posts to the pullup.

It really depends on your technical proficiency and what you feel
comfortable wiring together. I would suggest you just let the egg do
what it does though, and not worry about intelifeed unless you have a
specific need for it, not that anyone ever listens to me in that regard :)

If you want, you can run the whole gun from the 18v EGG power supply,
the morlock can run on up to 35v

-Curt

[warpedmephisto]

Since the Parker solenoid are only rated at 5 volts, I wouldn't chance it and run the risk of frying a soleniod core. Even though the on time is only 14ms (or whatever) at high ROF it all adds up.

I'd have to look at the Egg board, but you could probably run the signal in where the receiving eye component sends the signal to the board. You'll have to check whether it is a high or low signal and tap off of the Morlock accordingly.

[goose]

so ultimately the higher voltage to the board could result in higher output to the noid...that is what i was afraid of.

i might just buy the x board for the egg and be done with it

[Edwin]

I don't have a Morlock Schematic, but I would bet they have a voltage regulator that takes the battery voltage and converts it to 5 volts. So I don't think you will fry the noid.

It will be horribly ineffiecent (electronically speaking) as most paintball baords just use a LDO Voltage regulator which vents off additional voltage as heat!!! So 18v-5v=13v of heat. Depending on how much current the board draws i.e. 10ma, you ccan figure how much wattage you will loose to heat. 13v x .01a = 0.13watts.

You may never notice the ineffiecent circuit, but I just thought I would add that bit of info.

[warpedmephisto]

Actually the way the Morlock works, it runs no voltage regulator inbetween the board input and solenoid outputs. It does run a voltage regulator for the PIC though, I believe. So yes, whatever you dump into the board, 18v, is what your solenoid output is.

[Edwin]

Ouch!!!!!!
If that is correct, the morlock sounds like it may have a problem!!! I don't think I would want to run my noid at 9V either. Yes it probably could handle it but should you do it???


I retract half of my previous post!!!

[warpedmephisto]

Thats why the Morlock can power sear-tripper electros and other markers that require a high current draw on the solenoids. I would have done it differently as well - either with an adustable voltage output, or a fixed 5v output but with high mA handling.

[goose]

actually if i am understanding correctly from what i am finding out it is running a 5 volt output so edwins theory is probably correct.

here is their basic info

The microcontroller used is a Microchip® PIC 12ce519. This chip has on-board EEPROM, which is used to store configuration information. This memory is maintained even with the battery disconnected, for 40+ years.


The logic runs on a 5v regulator which is independent of the power circuitry. The two transistors switch power directly from the battery to the solenoids, bypassing the regulator. This allows for tremendous drive power, limited only by the capacity of your battery. According to published specs, the Morlock can switch 30V @ 4.6A (138 watts) with an on resistance of only .031W . This translates into very little heat buildup, and tremendous efficiency.


The Morlock consumes 15ma when idling, more than half of that is consumed by the LED.

[warpedmephisto]

The logic runs on a 5v regulator which is independent of the power circuitry. The two transistors switch power directly from the battery to the solenoids, bypassing the regulator. This allows for tremendous drive power, limited only by the capacity of your battery.

So the PIC is regulated to 5v, but the solenoid outputs aren't.

[goose]

i am going to have to email them and find out about that..i don't want to be frying noids

those get expensive after a while

[ME262]

the regulator is for the logic chip.
whatever voltage you run is what the solenoids will run.


on a side note i hooked a solenoid to straight 18 volts for 2 minutes and it just started to get warm, they are quite a bit tougher then you would think.....

[warpedmephisto]

Wow, I wouldn't have thought that they could dissapate that much energy. It was a regular 5v Tribal solenoid, right?

[goose]

well andy was right as always lol and i think me262 is on the right track too

here is what curt said on the 5 volt noids
(i specified that it was an old skinner in an older tribal)

Yes thats right, the main battery voltage is run right to the solenoid,
but don't let that worry you. a 5v solenoid will be fine. Thats the
rating for continuous use, for short duty cycles like running a
paintball gun it hardly matters. Remember its just a coil of wire, the
only thing you really have to worry about is overheating it, which would
be a problem if it were going to be held ON, but firing the paintball
gun its pulsed at what? 18ms intervals? Thats peanuts

so on that note i may just have andy run the hopper as the power supply :)
Me262 was that a constant on for 2 mins without ever letting off of it and it never fried??? if so that eliminates my worries

[ME262]

yep 2 minutes straight from 2 9 volt batts...

the coil section got barely warm, in fact ive still got that solenoid for a test unit.......

[goose]

well that end my fear of frying one that's for sure