barrel porting

[TheTramp]

I’ve got one of those stock barrels with the dimples most of the way down the sides that look like porting (thanks Eball :D ). I would like to turn all the fake porting into real porting. Now I’ve got a nice big drill press that’ll do the job but my question is: how do I go about keeping the inside of the barrel smooth and if I can’t do that how do I smooth it out after I’m done drilling?

[bakerboy4679]

I've never heard of anyone doing this, as I just thought about it, but what if you get a dowel of as close a size bore as the barrel, and shove it in the barrel, that way after you get through the metal, it goes into the wood, maybe it will keep the aluminum from burring out???

I might try this as well!

Just a thought ;)
~Andrew

[jeremy.sears]

either way you will have to debur it, or it will break your paintballs. might be able to use a dremel flex extension with sand paper and polisher attachments

[bakerboy4679]

enphasis on the 'extension' part.. those dimples/portings go about 6 or so" into the barrel.. they probly have them just about everywhere though. or you could make your own :Pounder:

[warpedmephisto]

The ideal thing to do would be to use an end mill as they don't leave burrs when it cuts through a surface. Even so after that it would probably be a good idea to run a hone through there to make sure its all nice and smooth.

[Edwin]

I doubt that you will be able to keep the finish on the internal of the barrel.

I also doubt it is worth your time.

If you are going to try this, put the drill press on the highest speed, and let the drill do the work. Don't force the bit as it will make more burrs. Let the bit slowly work through, and use a coolant (water).

Use a new sharp bit!!!

[TheTramp]

All I've got is the drill press so unless I could use an end mill bit in that......

I'n not that worried about the finish as long as there aren't any burrs. Drilling all the "porting" would leave me with a good amount of contol bore and in the end, I'll use my barrel kit for real play. This barrel is just for looks on the wall mostly. If I can get a super quiet (but not eficent I know) barrel then it'll be worth my time (which I have a fair amount of anyway ;) )

[warpedmephisto]

I wouldn't recommend using an end mill in in a drill press as it will kick the work all around unless you have it clamped down.

[goose]

tramp i have been making what i call bull barrels for over 10 years. it is not as hard as you may think and you can do it with a dremel and drill press without sacrificing the finish of the barrel.

(just to clarify some questions here a bull barrel is not just a ported barrel. It is a ported barrel with a series of chambers built around it for a milsim effect. These are extreamely quiet on low pressure markers and are even 50 percent quiter then most barrels on a blowback. they are not just a overly ported barrel)

i use a 1/8 inch drill bit which give an awsome flow.

you will need to go really slow thorough it otherwise the second step will only be that much more tedious. so edwin hit the nail on the head there . really sharp bit and go slow.

once you have them all drilled go to a hardware store or any store that sells some nice tools and buy a set of diamond coated deburing bits

the set i have is 50 bits in various sizes and shapes... get one that has a 1/8" or slightly smaller ball. the ball is usually twice the size of the shank so you put this in a dremmel on a low speed and i mean low cause dremmels are quick so i hope you have one with the 6 speed controle not the 3 speed

put the ball through the hole and slowly and lightly go around the hole with the ball inside the bore...you basically run the shank around the circumference of the hole like your tracing it. since the ball is bigger it will go slightly past the edge and take the burrs of nocely and recess the holes a tiny bit on the inside of the bore....the rest of your bore is never touched

trust me it works.. my barrels do not break balls. i have broke just as many in my dye stainless which is like a mirror so they do not break any more then any ther barrel would

[TheTramp]

Thank's for the tips! I've already got those dremel bits so I'll give that a go next time I'm in the shop.

[goose]

there is a difference from dremmel bits and deburring bits...the deburring bits are fine and diamond coated...most dremel bits are to soft or to coarse....the soft ones will get the job done with a descent finish bt they will take some time and eat your bits pretty quick

[TheTramp]

OK, I'll go and get some that specificly say "deburring" and "diamond coated." Thanks!

[goose]

you can try the dremmels but your either going to find it will be to coarse or your going to eat them up is they are the soft one...i looked at ace hardware today and they have a set of like 10 or so for like 5 bucks you figure you will eat 2 of them soft dremmel bits up atleast so you already saved your money and will still have the bits for another time too

[TheTramp]

OK, so they're the ones with the ball shaped end? "bladed" or "gringing stone" type? My grasp of the proper termanoligy is pretty poor as you can see. :D

I'll probably just go get the right tool for the job.

[BunkerzU]

waste of money, but a stiffi might not burr when ported.................

[TheTramp]

The key here is that I've already got the barrel and it's already got fake porting that goes most of the way down it so I'm half way there already. :)

[goose]

just get the ones that look like a grinding stone but are diamond coated..it will look like a shiny coating of dust on it but they are adheared so they do not come off..they work great...

as far as being a waste of time everyone is entitled to their opinion

as far as trying to port a stiffi...only if you want to ruin a 100 dollar barrel.

carbon fiber is layed in sheets like fiber glass and the ports there if i am not mistaken are cast so to speak when they glass it...there is a reason they tell you to only use rubber squeegies...it is easy to snag and chip and basically rip it and in turn make an edge that is as sharp as a razzor blade...i would not drill it to save my life...you are just asking to snag an edge and make a hell of a mess and a piece of crap out of it.....you might be able to get away with it if you use a very fine grinding stone and go slow but never in my life would i try to drill it...drill bits bite to much to go in a fine enough and slow enough of a cut

just like some fiberglass i would drill and some i would not...if it is solid fiberglass layed in sheets and layed in multiple layers then i would work with it. if it is thin fiberglass like what a corvet is made of and is made using fiberglass particles then no way... it chips to much....you can take a vette and put your fist right throught he fender but using the exact same materials and hardeners and resins you can lay sheets and make a big glass bowl so to speak then turn it over and hit it with a 20 pound sledge and it will bounce back and not even scratch the glass.

my dad was a poattern maker for 55 years and you learn alot when you hang out in the shop and that is one thing they use to do to test the strenth of material for race car bodies they made he still has a 1933 5 window coup body hanging in the rafters of his garage in fact