drilling hammer

[karma crx]

any one ever try to drill and tap the hammer so you dont have to use red loc tite? i was thinking of doing this. kinda like the autococker hammer with the nylon insert on the side.

good or bad idea?

im only thinking of this because red loctite is so hard to take off, and you have to to relube the ram.

thanks
-joseph

[JaKaL]

It's hardened steel...

good luck...

[jeremy.sears]

cobalt bits and a good drill press maybe, try drilling through wood first to keep the bit from straying use good cutting oil. Interesting idea anyway one issue I think you may run into is tapping the threads since most taps start small and get bigger as you go farther in, you might hit the other side of the ram shaft hole before you can tap the whole thing correctly. But then I might be wrong here

[DarkStar]

I think you may run into is tapping the threads since most taps start small and get bigger as you go farther in, you might hit the other side of the ram shaft hole before you can tap the whole thing correctly. But then I might be wrong here
You can buy finishing taps that are flat and not tapered

[warpedmephisto]

Yep, just use a bottoming tap to finish it off. And I don't think they're hardened steel, just rather stainless steel - but I've been wrong before. The othe problem you'd have to worry about is messing up the threads when you tighten down on the set screw. That could cause some problems.

[jeremy.sears]

I wouldnt think the nylon screw he talked about would hurt anything. Like the ones on the after market cocker hammers

[warpedmephisto]

Ahh, thought he was talking about using a stainless or carbon steel set screw. Yeah, that wouldn't be a bad idea at all. I'll have to check and see how much nylon inserts are.

[jeremy.sears]

naw just get a noob with a cocker and tell him his gun will be AGG without it and use his

[warpedmephisto]

Just check and nylon set screws are really cheap. We have a couple of different routes though. We can go with a nylon set screw (8-32 x 3/16") with either a standard hex socket or slotted style. Or we can go with a SS set screw with either a brass or nylon insert in the tip. I have found that the hex cap solid nylon ones tend to strip out if you put a fair amount of torque on them, so a slotted one might be better (although its only available in 1/8" and 1/4" so we'd have to take a little off the tip). The SS with tip inserts are about 4 times as much pricewise, but they should hold up the best. I do want to try this on a hammer I have here because I'm just as fed up with red loctite on hammers and ram shafts as everyone else is. What do you all think?

[karma crx]

yea try it and let me know, i cant belive no one has thought about this yet. i dont think the hammers are hardend, i think there just ss

thanks
-joseph

[jeremy.sears]

If I can find one of those nylon screws, I will try it on my drill press. I have cobalt drill bits, isnt too much they cant cut

[JaKaL]

it IS a really good idea.

I'll be interested to see how it turns out, but since I don't have the tools to do the mod, it won't be much more than interest until I can send my gun off to someone like Warped...

[warpedmephisto]

Yeah, I think I'm gonna go for it and try it on one. Just got to make it cut and not gall up - and use lots of lubricant!

[Edwin]

yea try it and let me know, i cant belive no one has thought about this yet. i dont think the hammers are hardend, i think there just ss

thanks
-joseph

Umm, it has been thought of, but not to many people tried it. I have been thinking of a Ram Shaft and hammer design for a while now. Something that would be real simple to take apart and relube, but I haven't decided on a particular design.

One thing you have to remember is: If you fuck up you hammer and ram shaft.....Where are you going to go to get another???

I would recomment filing a flat spot on your Ram Shaft that way you could use a SS or CS set screw and it wouldn't mess up the threads as there wouldn't be any threads there.

[Edwin]

Oh yeah, it is Stainless Steel like Andy said, and it can be drilled, but your not going to be able to do it with a hand drill. You will need a Drill Press, Mill or lathe to get it done.... I use HSS drill bits to drill stainless all day long. You also need coolant--water at a minimum to keep you bit cool or it will dull out quick.

[amcfall]

I've used the steel set screws with the nylon tips for a number of projects, I love the things. You can snug them down real well without damaging threads.

Avery

[TheTramp]

Umm, it has been thought of, but not to many people tried it. I have been thinking of a Ram Shaft and hammer design for a while now. Something that would be real simple to take apart and relube, but I haven't decided on a particular design.
.


Every time we talk about hammers and ram assemblies I suggest finding out what New Designz did to make their ram assembly so much better than the stock one. You might not believe it but putting one of these in really did help me with my pressures. Of course I also used their other high flow stuff but we've already got most of that.

http://www.newdesignz.com/Impulse_7.htm

[warpedmephisto]

I've thought of an idea similar to that, to where the air only goes in that little channel instead of surrounding the entire ram. That and I bet they're honed and polished a ton so they're super slick. A combination of that, and making an adjustable, or even preset like the new Angels, snap ring would provide for a very nice ram. And the addition of an easy to remove hammer.

[Edwin]

Every time we talk about hammers and ram assemblies I suggest finding out what New Designz did to make their ram assembly so much better than the stock one. You might not believe it but putting one of these in really did help me with my pressures. Of course I also used their other high flow stuff but we've already got most of that.

http://www.newdesignz.com/Impulse_7.htm

Yep, I am considering some of the ups they have in their rams, but I haven't gotten to a point to start my Ram project. I am paying down my machining bills, but it is still in the distant future..........I doubt I could do it for under $125.00......I also doubt there would be enough interest.....

[TheTramp]

What if you used the stock hammer and ram shaft? The assembly itself should be an improvment.

I guess the reason I'd think there'd be intrest is because it's one of the few places we can still make a significant performance improvment.

[Edwin]

Yep that is a good idea.

[warpedmephisto]

Just an update to this. I tried it out on my test hammer I have here and I found the correct drilling feed/speed for stainless. After I figured that out and tapped it and everything, I tried it on a stock hammer and I also chamfered the edge, to be sure no burs would scar the lower tube. It turned out great and I am using a SS set screw right now. If you don't crank down on the screw, it won't damage the shaft threads, but will securely hold it in place.

Here's links to some pics of it.

http://www.warpedairsmithing.com/misc/MVC-133F.JPG
http://www.warpedairsmithing.com/misc/MVC-134F.JPG

[JaKaL]

Nice job, Andy.

Have you considered how much you'd charge to do the mod?

[warpedmephisto]

Eh, not really. Its pretty easy to do, but its a little bit of a mess because you have to use generous amounts of cutting fluid when you drill it to keep the heat down and keep your drills in good condition.

[JaKaL]

The reason I ask is because I'm working up a list of work I'll need you, or someone like you, to do for my twister project. It's gonna be badass.

You can do mini-morrlock installs right?

[warpedmephisto]

Yep, I've pretty much got it all covered. I was also thinking of drilling the ram body for an 8-32 set screw so you don't have to loctite the endcap on and still make it easily removable, but it won't rotate. I think I'll try that tonight or tomorrow. I'll definitely puts some more pics up.

[karma crx]

glad it worked good for you im going to be trying this shorty, but im going to grind a portion down on the shaft like edwin said.

-joseph

[warpedmephisto]

I actually don't think there will be any problems with damaging the threads because both parts are SS and you don't have to crank down very hard at all to get it to lock in good.

[bakerboy4679]

Andy have you done it yet?

OT, My Hammer is stuck on the shaft(red loctite I'm sure), but I'm thinking that even if I heat it up, i wouldnt be able to get a good grip on it, to turn it..

What would someone suggest for getting the best grip on the shaft and hammer???

[Edwin]

If you heat it up really good (torch) it will twist off with your glove covered hand. Only takes 4-5 seconds of MAPP Torch Heat.

[warpedmephisto]

Yeah, the loctite breaks down pretty quick with a propane or MAPP gas torch. Just mount the shaft in a bench vise (not too hard) and then heat up the hammer. Once you think its hot enough give it a twist with a welding glove on.

[bakerboy4679]

Ok, will do. Thanks.